Letter from Hawaii-Surf Punks
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[ti:Letter From Hawaii]
[ar:Surf Punks]
[al:My Beach]
[by:]
[offset:0]
[00:00.00]Letter from Hawaii - Surf Punks
[00:04.46]Written by：D. Dragon
[00:08.92]This is a factual letter from Hawaii the names of
[00:13.02]The spots have been changed to protect the locals
[00:16.55]Howzit bruddah
[00:18.67]Peter and I went out to hana bay last Wednesday
[00:21.91]It was a perfect six foot down the line and
[00:24.09]Crowded I went out at sugar shack which was five
[00:27.17]Foot and semi closing out it was fun a little
[00:30.77]Better and faster than that first day we went out
[00:33.22]But definitely not as juicy as the last longboard larry
[00:36.67]And amazing mike paddled out the sets were ok but
[00:39.92]It was a long time between waves three days ago
[00:43.05]Was the biggest swell of the year animal and I
[00:46.23]Drove to hana bay but it was twenty foot and
[00:48.95]Unrideable whitewater everywhere we drove back to cracks and it
[00:53.13]Was five to six foot with three guys out they
[00:55.76]Paddled in and I talked to them in the morning
[00:58.29]They said it was three foot when I first got
[01:00.57]There it was five to six foot J P drove
[01:03.60]Up and we both decided to go out and we
[01:05.57]Saw an eight to ten foot set break across the
[01:07.76]Bay n body was out and we started paddling out
[01:10.70]When easily ten foot wave break across
[01:12.95]The channel while waiting for a set of at least
[01:15.52]Six waves to stop I started getting sucked out to
[01:18.13]The point on the right in a river riptide I
[01:20.95]Paddled back to the beach realizing that it was peaking
[01:23.67]Or still getting bigger j p paddled out caught two
[01:27.04]Waves and came in as it was too freaky and
[01:29.41]Hard to line up with n body out about an
[01:31.88]Hour later it got really crowded and cleaned up a
[01:34.18]Bit jerry mopehead went out so I took pictures of
[01:37.43]Him and max and a lot of other hotties one
[01:40.18]Guy got washed up on the rocks below me he
[01:44.98]Was lucky at least the rip didn't drag him out
[01:47.54]To sea cords were useless they snapped like peanut brittle
[01:51.34]I heard the second ditch at ammunition dump was good
[01:54.08]On Sunday also that the left near the sewage treatment
[01:57.90]Plant which rarely breaks was good well that's enough news
[02:01.81]For now gotta get back in the water
[02:05.01]Aloha
[02:06.48]P S don't come over here
[02:10.19]I wonder why I said that
[ar:Surf Punks]
[al:My Beach]
[by:]
[offset:0]
[00:00.00]Letter from Hawaii - Surf Punks
[00:04.46]Written by：D. Dragon
[00:08.92]This is a factual letter from Hawaii the names of
[00:13.02]The spots have been changed to protect the locals
[00:16.55]Howzit bruddah
[00:18.67]Peter and I went out to hana bay last Wednesday
[00:21.91]It was a perfect six foot down the line and
[00:24.09]Crowded I went out at sugar shack which was five
[00:27.17]Foot and semi closing out it was fun a little
[00:30.77]Better and faster than that first day we went out
[00:33.22]But definitely not as juicy as the last longboard larry
[00:36.67]And amazing mike paddled out the sets were ok but
[00:39.92]It was a long time between waves three days ago
[00:43.05]Was the biggest swell of the year animal and I
[00:46.23]Drove to hana bay but it was twenty foot and
[00:48.95]Unrideable whitewater everywhere we drove back to cracks and it
[00:53.13]Was five to six foot with three guys out they
[00:55.76]Paddled in and I talked to them in the morning
[00:58.29]They said it was three foot when I first got
[01:00.57]There it was five to six foot J P drove
[01:03.60]Up and we both decided to go out and we
[01:05.57]Saw an eight to ten foot set break across the
[01:07.76]Bay n body was out and we started paddling out
[01:10.70]When easily ten foot wave break across
[01:12.95]The channel while waiting for a set of at least
[01:15.52]Six waves to stop I started getting sucked out to
[01:18.13]The point on the right in a river riptide I
[01:20.95]Paddled back to the beach realizing that it was peaking
[01:23.67]Or still getting bigger j p paddled out caught two
[01:27.04]Waves and came in as it was too freaky and
[01:29.41]Hard to line up with n body out about an
[01:31.88]Hour later it got really crowded and cleaned up a
[01:34.18]Bit jerry mopehead went out so I took pictures of
[01:37.43]Him and max and a lot of other hotties one
[01:40.18]Guy got washed up on the rocks below me he
[01:44.98]Was lucky at least the rip didn't drag him out
[01:47.54]To sea cords were useless they snapped like peanut brittle
[01:51.34]I heard the second ditch at ammunition dump was good
[01:54.08]On Sunday also that the left near the sewage treatment
[01:57.90]Plant which rarely breaks was good well that's enough news
[02:01.81]For now gotta get back in the water
[02:05.01]Aloha
[02:06.48]P S don't come over here
[02:10.19]I wonder why I said that
