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“侗乡河水无浪波，青青流淌人心窝。山有情来水有意请你贵客歇歇脚、甜美的歌声响起来了，那歌声，似无数的雨滴从早春的嫩叶上轻轻滑过，舒缓而空灵；又像淙淙清流，漫过人的心里，让人心变得柔软而宁静。贵州黔东南的侗族村寨大都座落在青山绿水之间，各寨的鼓楼耸立于木楼群中，几座风雨桥，或于寨前，或于田坝中，跨溪锁秀，远看斗拱重檐，亭台复飞，近观彩绘陆离，曲虹倒映，令人叹为观止。这里寨寨有鼓楼、歌堂，家家有歌手，户户有歌声。村寨里服饰、民居、节日、歌舞、建筑、习俗等多种文化相生相息，原生民间文化深厚而富有多样性，民族文化的传承具有广泛的群众基础和自觉性，其独特的地理环境，又积淀形成了古朴、神秘的文化特质。在这里，我们听到了清泉般闪亮的音乐，那就是侗族大歌。走进这片流淌着清泉也流淌着音乐的乡土，我们在观看风雨桥、鼓楼、禾仓、戏台时，我们在聆听侗族大歌演绎着古典而庄严的音乐元素时，不经意间，已推开侗族大歌与侗寨那扇心灵情感的闸门，音乐的清泉便从侗族古老的传说里流淌而来，从《珠郎娘美》悲情壮美的爱情故事中流淌而来....侗族大歌是无指挥、无伴奏、多声部民间复调式合唱音乐。没有指挥，万人同唱，台上台下，却是少有凌乱之感，极其和谐，仿佛天籁清音的轻声呼唤，和谐、细腻、祥和之音，有如回到久远的旷古，带给我们的却是安详的切切关爱，这种安详时而如清溪过谷，时而却是急风骤雨，惊心动魄。迎客歌、情歌、敬酒歌、叙事歌等，歌声起处，时而如清泉微漾，时而似急雨穿林；瞑目静听，让人感觉到春光煦暖，鲜花盛开，一种宁静古朴而幽远的艺术感召力，不由从心灵深处漫涌而起，歌声里流溢着侗乡人情和风物的魅力，这流淌不息的歌声，浸润了侗乡这块神奇的土地。难怪有人会说侗族大歌，浓缩的是侗族一个民族文化的精髓，折射的是侗族一个民族的全部历史，凝结的是侗族一个民族的民族精神，诠释的是侗族一个民族的生命内涵。也难怪侗家人会因此有一句谚语：“饭养身，歌养心”。子在川上曰：逝者如斯，不舍昼夜！消逝的是时间和人事，有如昼夜奔流的江水一样留不住。我们可以触及的侗族音乐文化内涵只能在历史的北面，慢慢去聆听、去寻找吧！黔东南侗人 陆江2008年3月4日There is no wave in the river of the Dong village,Clear water flows into my heart.Both mountain and river have affection,My distinguished guest, please stop and have a rest ..."When the sweet song starts, it is just like countless raindrops skim over the young leaves slowly and gracefuly in early spring. It is also like babbling brooks flow up to the heart of the people and it makes the heart soft and calm.Most of the Dong villages in Qiandongnan, Guizhou all locate in the green mountains. All drum towers of the village stand up the timber towers. Some bridges that have been endured for centuries are in front of the villages and some are among the dams. Some fly over the brooks and some block up the scenery.When youlook at a distance, you will see bucket arches and overlapped eaves and pavilions go around. When you lookat a close range, the scenery is weirdly colorful and the rainbow reflects in the winding rivers. It makes people being lost in wonder.There are drum towers and singing halls in every village and there are singers in every family and there are songs coming out from every family. Several cultures, such as costumes,houses,festivals,song and dance,buildings and customs,exist and fade away together. The original ecological folk culture is not only deep and steady but also diversity.The heritage of the national culture rests on popular support and consciousness, Its special geographical environment has bestowed its culturequalities such as simple and unsophisticated and unsearchable.Here,we can hear music of stream of clear water which is the chorus of Tong nationality.Walking into thelocal village where stream of clear water is flowing and music are flying, we, without notice, have already burst the mental and emotional sluice gate of the chorus of Dong nationality and the Dong villages while weare looking at the bridges that has been endured for centuries,the drum towers,warehouses and stages and listening to chorus of Dong nationality that deduces the classical and solemn musical elements. The clear music flows out from the old legends of the Dong nationality and the bittersweet ending love story《Zhu Lang and Niangmei》…There is no conductor,no accompaniment in the chorus of Dong nationality. It is a counterpoint folk polyphonic part song.It is sung by hundreds of people on and down the stage without conductor.The sound is not in disorder but in harmony. It is just like the music from haven gently calling for harmony,elaborate and serenity.It seems that we have come back to a remote place from time immemorial.It brought us serene care. Sometimes, this serene care is just like clear stream flows pass the valley and sometimes it is like storm and making people feel breathless.When people begin to sing song such as welcoming guest song, love song,toasting song and narrative song,etc.,the music sometimes is just like rippling stream of clear water and sometimes like storm passing through the forest. While listening to it with eyes closed,you will feel the warmth of spring andthe flowers in full bloom. A kind of calm, simple and unsophisticated and a long time ago art impel can't help springing up from the deep heart. The fascination of the local custom of the Dong village flows outfrom the song.The everlasting song spread far and wide on this miraculous land.It is no wonder that people will say that an essence of national culture of the Dong nationality is concentrated in the chorus of the Dong nationality. It reflects the whole history of the Dong nationalityand coagulates the spirit of the Dong nationality and annotates the connotation of life of the Dong nationality. It is no wonder a proverb of the Dong goes that"Rice keeps good health and song nourishesone's heart".Confucius once standing by the stream, remarked,"How all things in nature are passing away even like this,ceasing neither day nor night!" What we have faded away is time and life. This is just lie water goesdown to the sea day and night and never get back. The connotation of the musical culture of the Dong nationality we can touch is only in the other side of the history. Let's listen to it carefully and look for itslowly!LU JiangThe Dong of QiandongnanMarch 4,2008